DIY Tutorial (Ladies: S, M, L, & XL)
Biased ruffle skirts have become very popular. Not only do they look very feminine but they also are very sliming. If you’re like me you love this sliming, feminine look. Unfortunately, for me, our budget has not allowed for purchasing these skirts, soooo… I made my own pattern. I have had several people ask about this pattern. This tutorial is homemade and the pattern is homemade. It may take some tweaking of the pattern to get it exactly right for you. Please note this pattern is provided for DIY sewers. This specific pattern and pattern piece are not to be used for commercial production or resale purposes. By printing this pattern piece you agree to this stipulation.
Just a side note: Sewing with knits can be very frustrating. I typically use a serger when working with knits and avoid my sewing machine at all costs. If you don’t have a serger, you can use a sewing machine.
There are a few things to remember when working with knits.
- Use a stretch needle
- Don’t pull on the fabric as you sew
- Use a stem stitch or small zig-zag to avoid seams breaking when you stretch the fabric
Supplies to gather:
- Approximately 3 yards of fabric (must be knit/stretch fabric)
- Fabric Tape Measure
- Yard stick
- Pen to mark
- Sewing Scissors
- Serger and Sewing machine (serger not absolutely necessary)
NOTE: See our shop for quality, low-priced stretchy knit fabric! Click here
Decide your size. Pattern piece can be adjusted to make larger or smaller sizes. For this pattern we will be using ½” seam allowance. Adjust below pattern if your seam allowance is different. Click below to download the pattern pieces. Note: When printing, select “print actual size”. PATTERN PIECE “A” PATTERN PIECE”B”
|SIZE||HIP MEASUREMENT||RUFFLE PIECES||UNDERLINING FABRIC||ELASTIC|
|Small||Hips up to 39″||Cut (12) small pattern pieces on fold||Cut fabric piece 36″ length by 40″ wide||Cut (1) piece waist measurement minus 6.5″|
|Medium||Hips up to 42”||Cut (12) medium pattern pieces on fold||Cut fabric piece 36” length by 43” wide||Cut (1) piece waist measurement minus 6.5”|
|Large||Hips up to 44”||Cut (12) large pattern pieces on fold||Cut fabric piece 36” length by 45” wide||Cut (1) piece waist measurement minus 6.5”|
|X-Large||Hips up to 47”||Cut (12) X-Large pattern pieces on fold||Cut fabric piece 36” length by 48” wide||Cut (1) piece waist measurement minus 6.5”|
|The stretchiest part of the fabric should be with the width.||Elastic varies in stretchiness. Adjust elastic cut length accordingly.|
Use above chart and attached pattern to cut your ruffles. I typically fold the fabric twice, trace the pattern onto the fabric and then cut. This gives you 2 ruffle pieces per cut.
Use the above chart to cut your underlining fabric. I typically fold the fabric here as well to make it more manageable to cut.
I love clean seam and always serge a rolled hem on the end of the ruffles. This step is optional. Check your serger manual to figure out how to sew a rolled hem.
Sew or serge two ruffles to each other. See picture. Tie seams off instead of just cutting them off so they don’t unravel with wear and wash.
Serge together underlining piece. 36” should be measurement from top to bottom (not hip to hip). To double check yourself, hold the piece up to yourself to make sure the width and length are correct before sewing this seam together.
Cut (5) underlining pieces at 5.5” long. Top section will be approximately 8”. This will be your waistband piece that you will use in Step 8 to install elastic.
Cut your elastic. You may measure a skirt with elastic that fits you well to get exact elastic measurement. Or use the guide in the above chart. Sew elastic piece together.
I use a serger in insert the elastic. Your serger manual will have the setting that you should use when installing elastic. I quarter the fabric and the elastic and pin it so it pulls equally when sewn. If you don’t have a serger you can make a casing out of the top and pull you elastic through with a safety pin.
Turn over elastic and sew in place. Pull elastic straight as you sew to eliminate puckering.
Now you are ready to assemble your skirt.
Mark off the front seam, back seam and each side seam. I usually just place a pin here. Do this for each ruffle and for each underpiece. If you skip this step, your side ruffle seams will be all over the place and won’t look very professional.
I start at the bottom and attach one ruffle (ruffle #6) to one underpiece (underpiece #5), matching up the back seams, side seams and front seams where marked with the pins. These two pieces will be right sides together. Serge together. Leave pins in place until you come to them, making sure that your edges line up exactly and you are not pulling the fabric.
Next attach another ruffle to the top of underpiece #5. Make sure you line up according to your pin marks for back, front, and side ruffles. Ruffle #5 will be wrong side to the right side of underpiece #5. Do not sew together yet!
Next pin underpiece #4 to the top of underpiece #5 and ruffle #5. Underpiece #4 will be right side to the right side of ruffle #5. Again make sure front, back and side seams match up. Serge together, making sure that all 3 edges stay together. You will have to sew very slowly to accomplish this. If you have problems doing this you may consider pin the seams all the way around. It is easy to miss sewing the actual ruffle piece if you’re not careful.
Repeat Step 13 and 14 until you have assembled your whole skirt.
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